Choosing your bathroom basin
This article is written to highlight some of the key decisions when choosing a new bathroom basin. The right basin fits in with the way you live. Consider the following questions before you choose.
What are your storage needs?
Have you considered different types of sinks?
What materials need special care?
1. Your storage needs
Vanity cabinets and built-in cabinetry offer the greatest variety of storage, and depending on the size and material of the countertop, dictate the type, size, and shape of basin that will fit.
Solid surface countertops such as marble, granite, wood, and manmade materials will allow for an under-mounted basin installation. Consider a recessed or semi recessed basin in these cases. This type of installation maximizes the countertop area, and the seamless design is easy to keep clean. Our Laufen range offer uncomplicated countertop basins or if you are looking for something a bit different, check out out cast stone range by StoneKast.
2. Types of basin
Recessed basins are available in a range of sizes and decorative shapes, and with a choice of faucet drillings. Our top seller is the Laufen Pro drop-in washbasin. Semi-recessed basins ar those basins that are partially exposed and mounted onto a cabinet.
Pedestal basins are available in styles ranging from contemporary to Victorian. They work very well when used in small areas. Pedestals have a generous bowl, but don't offer much sink decking or storage. If you choose a basin with a stylised pedestal, you may want to consider a matching toilet. See out pedestal basins page for ideas or our bathroom suites for our top selling examples.
Freestanding basins are fashionable and always make a bold design statement. However, the taps you choose must have a spout that is long and high enough to reach the bowl, or you may consider a wall-mounted tap. Freestanding basins are also usually made without an overflow, so they must be fitted with a grid drain.
Wall-hung basins keep the floor area free when space is restricted. If you are concerned about unsightly pipework, think again There are a wide rande of attractive chrome and gold bottle traps available or you could consider a syphon cover. Several of the Laufen Pro Washbasins have a matching syphon cover which acts as the perfect compromise between pedestal and space optimisation. See our wall-hung basins page for more ideas.
Corner basins are the most space-economical solutions for small bathrooms and cloakrooms. They are almost always wall-hung and usually only available with one tap hole meaning you will need a single hole (or mono) basin mixer. We have a selection or corner basins to choose from.
3. Materials and care
Bathroom sinks are available in many materials including vitreous china, cast iron, fireclay, glass, stainless steel, brass, nickel, copper, marble, and stone.
Handpainted finishes are more delicate by nature, requiring special attention when cleaning.
Glass sinks are much tougher than they look, but like other premium materials such as brass and nickel, will show water spots if not wiped down after use.
Vitreous china is very durable and has a smooth, easy-to-clean finish. Offered in a rainbow of colors, choices of handpainted, etched, hammered, matte, and carved finishes must be considered along with material and design.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Choosing a bath
Choosing a bath
This section should tell you everything you need to know about choosing a bath for your new bathroom. It is divided into the following sections:
The bath's function
Types of bath
Whirlpool systems
Bathtub materials
Tub sizes
Location of waste
1. The bath's function
You need to think about how you will be using the bathtub. Above all, it should be comfortable. Make sure that the size and depth are appropriate for the bodies of those who will be using it. If you have the space, you may even opt for a two-person (double-ended) tub. If you're not sure about the size, go to a showroom and sit in a few.
A bathtub can also provide several therapeutic benefits.
Soaking in a tub lowers your blood pressure
Floating in the water puts less demands on the work your heart has to do
It helps to relax your muscles
A regular-sized bathtub is fine for relaxing your legs. For your back, you will want to submerge your whole body, which requires a deeper and sometimes longer bathtub.
2. Types of bath
Here are the most common styles of bath.
Wall to wall alcove bathtubs. These are surrounded by three walls - easily the most popular style. They are usually 170-180cm long and are most commonly available in white. Some baths come with a side panel (and seperate panels are also available) although many people opt to tile the out-facing side of an alcove bath.
Drop-in (or sunken) tubs are mounted on a platform, usually tiled, which may be in a corner or standing alone. They often have an oval shape. The surrounding panelling can be a good way to hide the plumbing for a whirlpool system.
Freestanding (also known as clawfoot) baths have four legs and stand freely in the room allowing accress from all sides. We have sections for traditional, modern and freestanding whirlpool baths.
Corner tubs are installed in a corner and typically have one rounded side exposed. For examples, see our corner baths section.
3. Whirlpool systems
Many baths are available with whirlpool systems pre-installed. There are also companies who will convert just about any bath into a fully functioning jacuzzi. If you are planning a whirlpool in your bathroom you will save money by buying a whirlpool bath at the outset.
There are many models available that feature strong hydrotherapy jets, pulsating neck jets, and adjustable lumbar jets with volume control. Some models offer invigorating systems that massage up and down your back in rapid succession. The amount of horsepower the pump is equipped with becomes more important as the tub gets larger, with some pumps offering up to 2 HP on 6-foot whirlpools. An integral heater that will maintain the water temperature while the motor is running, and other features such as safety grip rails, pump location, the number and placement of the jets, and convenient armrests are some other important considerations.
Whirlpool systems typically vary on:
Number of jets - usually between 6 and 11.
Type of controls (varying from simple on/off switches to fully computerised).
Lights - some systems even come with relaxing underwater lights!
For examples see out spas & whirlpools range or our freestanding whirlpools.
4. Bathtub materials
Acrylic is the most popular material mainly due to its lower price. It is also light and therefore easier to work with and install. Cast iron baths are the next most popular. They are be heavier, more durable and usually cost a little more. Less commonly found are wood and ceramic tile bathtubs.
5. Tub sizes
Bathtubs are measured by length, width and height. They typically have a length of at least 150cm and a width of 60-100cm. Standard bathtubs are usually 35-45cm deep. European style tubs are around 40-45cm deep, while Japanese bathtubs can be over 55cm deep.
You will want to make sure that the size of the bathtub will still allow you to walk around in the bathroom. Some space-saving designs are now available. Examples of these can be seen in our combination baths and corner baths sections.
6. Location of waste
It may sound obvious but make sure you plan where your bath will drain.
End drain bathtub. When facing the tub, look where the drain is. For a drain on the left, a left hand tub is needed, if on the other side, a right hand tub will be required.
Center drain tub: this has the drain in the middle of the bathtub. This is common for double ended baths as it prevents you from sitting on the waste pipe and adds a look of symmetry to the bath.
This section should tell you everything you need to know about choosing a bath for your new bathroom. It is divided into the following sections:
The bath's function
Types of bath
Whirlpool systems
Bathtub materials
Tub sizes
Location of waste
1. The bath's function
You need to think about how you will be using the bathtub. Above all, it should be comfortable. Make sure that the size and depth are appropriate for the bodies of those who will be using it. If you have the space, you may even opt for a two-person (double-ended) tub. If you're not sure about the size, go to a showroom and sit in a few.
A bathtub can also provide several therapeutic benefits.
Soaking in a tub lowers your blood pressure
Floating in the water puts less demands on the work your heart has to do
It helps to relax your muscles
A regular-sized bathtub is fine for relaxing your legs. For your back, you will want to submerge your whole body, which requires a deeper and sometimes longer bathtub.
2. Types of bath
Here are the most common styles of bath.
Wall to wall alcove bathtubs. These are surrounded by three walls - easily the most popular style. They are usually 170-180cm long and are most commonly available in white. Some baths come with a side panel (and seperate panels are also available) although many people opt to tile the out-facing side of an alcove bath.
Drop-in (or sunken) tubs are mounted on a platform, usually tiled, which may be in a corner or standing alone. They often have an oval shape. The surrounding panelling can be a good way to hide the plumbing for a whirlpool system.
Freestanding (also known as clawfoot) baths have four legs and stand freely in the room allowing accress from all sides. We have sections for traditional, modern and freestanding whirlpool baths.
Corner tubs are installed in a corner and typically have one rounded side exposed. For examples, see our corner baths section.
3. Whirlpool systems
Many baths are available with whirlpool systems pre-installed. There are also companies who will convert just about any bath into a fully functioning jacuzzi. If you are planning a whirlpool in your bathroom you will save money by buying a whirlpool bath at the outset.
There are many models available that feature strong hydrotherapy jets, pulsating neck jets, and adjustable lumbar jets with volume control. Some models offer invigorating systems that massage up and down your back in rapid succession. The amount of horsepower the pump is equipped with becomes more important as the tub gets larger, with some pumps offering up to 2 HP on 6-foot whirlpools. An integral heater that will maintain the water temperature while the motor is running, and other features such as safety grip rails, pump location, the number and placement of the jets, and convenient armrests are some other important considerations.
Whirlpool systems typically vary on:
Number of jets - usually between 6 and 11.
Type of controls (varying from simple on/off switches to fully computerised).
Lights - some systems even come with relaxing underwater lights!
For examples see out spas & whirlpools range or our freestanding whirlpools.
4. Bathtub materials
Acrylic is the most popular material mainly due to its lower price. It is also light and therefore easier to work with and install. Cast iron baths are the next most popular. They are be heavier, more durable and usually cost a little more. Less commonly found are wood and ceramic tile bathtubs.
5. Tub sizes
Bathtubs are measured by length, width and height. They typically have a length of at least 150cm and a width of 60-100cm. Standard bathtubs are usually 35-45cm deep. European style tubs are around 40-45cm deep, while Japanese bathtubs can be over 55cm deep.
You will want to make sure that the size of the bathtub will still allow you to walk around in the bathroom. Some space-saving designs are now available. Examples of these can be seen in our combination baths and corner baths sections.
6. Location of waste
It may sound obvious but make sure you plan where your bath will drain.
End drain bathtub. When facing the tub, look where the drain is. For a drain on the left, a left hand tub is needed, if on the other side, a right hand tub will be required.
Center drain tub: this has the drain in the middle of the bathtub. This is common for double ended baths as it prevents you from sitting on the waste pipe and adds a look of symmetry to the bath.
Planning your shower
Location
The first decision you need to make is where are you going to install the shower. Are you going to save space and use your bath as a shower or will you have a seperate unit? If you do wish to use your bath, there are several bath products designed specifically for the purpose. See our section on combination baths.
If you would like to install a separate shower unit without the need for doubling it up with the bath, there are several design considerations to make regarding its location and construction.
A complete shower unit may be purchased which includes all the necessary components. The shower, shower tray and walls of the cubicle are all pre-made and require only assembly and installation. Obviously, this set up is also relatively expensive.
Alternatively, you could build in a cubicle making use of the walls of the room and/or additional stud walls constructed to suit. This method is more labour intensive but can represent a considerable cost saving. It also has the advantage that it may be built to suit your requirements more exactly.
Building a shower cubicle
There are many possibilities for shower construction depending on the space available, the budget for the project and the taste of the user. The shower may be built against one wall and stud walls constructed on one or two of the sides. The shower could make use of the corner walls of the room. There is also the option of building a shower as an integral part of a cupboard arrangement. The 'open' side or sides may then have a screen or curtain installed. Access to the shower may be from one side or the corner of two sides.
Consideration at the design stage should also be given to the plumbing. It always looks far neater and professional if all the pipework is hidden from view. This can be achieved either by routing the pipes through the rear wall of the shower if this is possible, or by building a false wall in front of all the pipework.
Drainage from the shower tray can be a little problematical as the need for a 'fall' in the waste pipe can be difficult to achieve. The fact that the base of the shower is at floor level means that the waste will need to drop below it. If the joists supporting the floor run in the same direction as the waste pipe, there may be room to fit the waste within the floor depth. However, you've probably just discovered that yours run the other way. The way round this is to raise the base of the shower to provide the necessary slope of 6mm per 300mm length of waste pipe. A quick calculation will show you that the additional height of the base will not present too much of a problem. (a 3m run of waste will require the base to be lifted by 60mm). Some of the better shower trays come with an adjustable base height or optional plinths.
The tray is fitted with a shallow trap to minimise the under tray space requirements, but not if the waste is connected directly to the main stack via a strap boss. In this case it is required to be a deep trap.
Stud walls may be constructed to suit your design. The face of the walls should be made of marine grade plywood since the area will be subjected to considerable moisture. This is screwed and glued to a frame of suitably spaced and strengthened timber studwork.
Remember to seal all the angles between walls and the edges of the shower tray with mastic, so that there is no possibility of water percolating through.
The false wall referred to earlier is built on the same principles. It will accommodate the pipework between the timber uprights and also provide support for fixing the shower controls and adjustable rail for the shower head.
The surface of these walls should be sealed and may then be clad with ceramic tiles using a waterproof adhesive.
Choosing a shower enclosure
Shower enclosures come in several forms either filling one side of a recess as described above, two sides of a corner installed shower, or all three sides of a free-standing shower enclosure. Most enclosures are sold without a tray although there are complete products available such as Matki. All Matki shower enclosures include their matching shower tray.
Currently fashionable, frameless shower enclosures enable easy cleaning as the glass has no frame and therefore fewer gaps for dirt and limescale build up. Frameless shower enclosures are also known as 'Minimalist enclosures'. Ranges including frameless enclosures include Matki and Gal.
Many shower enclosures are slightly adjustable to allow for fitting in irregular positions. When choosing a shower enclosure for a room with a low ceiling you should be sure to account for the additional height of the shower tray.
Choosing a shower tray
Shower trays are available in steel and stone/resin construction. Steel trays, as well as being more durable and less prone to cracks and chips, are generally lower profile allowing assembly in rooms with lower ceilings. They also tend to be more expensive than their stone/resin equivalents. Kaldewei produce quality steel shower trays while we recommend MX trays in the stone/resin category.
Types of shower
In order to select the most suitable and economical type of shower it is important to recognise certain factors that can determine which shower is best for you. A mixer for example, would be the best choice in a household where both hot and cold water are supplied at equal pressure from the main storage system.
Most modern showers are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains). It is important to note whether or not the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler.
Such systems would include those of hot water being supplied from the mains via either a multipoint or combination boiler. To ensure the shower is adaptable to such conditions, it may be worth checking installation requirements with the manufacturer or to have it fitted by a registered plumber.
Bath/shower mixer:
Here, the hose and spray of the shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and once again, the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. Bath shower mixers can be wall mounted (for un-drilled baths) or deck mounted (plumbed into holes in the bath). Some baths come with tap holes and some without. Many plumbers are able to drill tap holes but you should check with your plummer to be safe. All of our tap ranges include wall and deck mounted options.
Pros
Relatively cheap and no extra plumbing is involved.
Cons
Temperature control is low which can prove to inconvenient and it is fiddly to adjust.
Manual mixer:
The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive manual mixer showers). We recommend Kusasi manual shower valves.
Pros
The wall unit is usually fixed at chest height, this makes temperature adjustment much more convenient.
Cons
More expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. Also, the hot and cold water supply pipes will need to be plumbed in.
Thermostatic mixer:
The hose and spray of the shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. It is complete with a built in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. For examples of thermostatic shower valves see this link.
Pros
The controlled temperature makes it extremely convenient. Also the thermostat means that the temperature and flow of water should not be affected when water is being used elsewhere in the house.
Cons
It is the most expensive of the different mixer options.
Power shower:
A single mixer unit containing an electric pump which is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted provided that there is a water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder.
Pros
Both the pressure and temperature of the water are easily adjusted making it convenient to use.
Cons
It is not suitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure. Also, the removal of waste water can be slow if the waste pipe is not big enough. It is best to use a 50mm (2in) waste pipe if possible.
Electric shower:
A wall unit which is plumbed into a mains cold water supply only. The water is heated as it passes through the unit. It is important to note that for this type of shower to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted as appropriate via a knob without the use of an additional pump.
Pros
Some models have a stabiliser for the temperature so that the water supply remains unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. It can also ensure that the water supply does not run too hot or cold.
Cons
Because the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure, the spray is often weak in the winter when the mains water is colder. This problem is combated in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting. The unit must be wired to an electric power supply according to Electricity Board requirements.
Installing the shower
The following is a step by step guide to the shower installation process.
1. Using the instruction guide that should have been provided, fit the shower control.
2. Before fitting the pipes that will eventually supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and isolating valves should be fitted. The pipes can then be recessed into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
3. Fit the shower tray, shower head, and fittings.
4. Connect up the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water. (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
5. Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
6. If it is an electrical shower that is being installed, the electricity supply must be switched off, before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
7. The shower should now be ready for the screens and cubicle tray to be fitted.
The first decision you need to make is where are you going to install the shower. Are you going to save space and use your bath as a shower or will you have a seperate unit? If you do wish to use your bath, there are several bath products designed specifically for the purpose. See our section on combination baths.
If you would like to install a separate shower unit without the need for doubling it up with the bath, there are several design considerations to make regarding its location and construction.
A complete shower unit may be purchased which includes all the necessary components. The shower, shower tray and walls of the cubicle are all pre-made and require only assembly and installation. Obviously, this set up is also relatively expensive.
Alternatively, you could build in a cubicle making use of the walls of the room and/or additional stud walls constructed to suit. This method is more labour intensive but can represent a considerable cost saving. It also has the advantage that it may be built to suit your requirements more exactly.
Building a shower cubicle
There are many possibilities for shower construction depending on the space available, the budget for the project and the taste of the user. The shower may be built against one wall and stud walls constructed on one or two of the sides. The shower could make use of the corner walls of the room. There is also the option of building a shower as an integral part of a cupboard arrangement. The 'open' side or sides may then have a screen or curtain installed. Access to the shower may be from one side or the corner of two sides.
Consideration at the design stage should also be given to the plumbing. It always looks far neater and professional if all the pipework is hidden from view. This can be achieved either by routing the pipes through the rear wall of the shower if this is possible, or by building a false wall in front of all the pipework.
Drainage from the shower tray can be a little problematical as the need for a 'fall' in the waste pipe can be difficult to achieve. The fact that the base of the shower is at floor level means that the waste will need to drop below it. If the joists supporting the floor run in the same direction as the waste pipe, there may be room to fit the waste within the floor depth. However, you've probably just discovered that yours run the other way. The way round this is to raise the base of the shower to provide the necessary slope of 6mm per 300mm length of waste pipe. A quick calculation will show you that the additional height of the base will not present too much of a problem. (a 3m run of waste will require the base to be lifted by 60mm). Some of the better shower trays come with an adjustable base height or optional plinths.
The tray is fitted with a shallow trap to minimise the under tray space requirements, but not if the waste is connected directly to the main stack via a strap boss. In this case it is required to be a deep trap.
Stud walls may be constructed to suit your design. The face of the walls should be made of marine grade plywood since the area will be subjected to considerable moisture. This is screwed and glued to a frame of suitably spaced and strengthened timber studwork.
Remember to seal all the angles between walls and the edges of the shower tray with mastic, so that there is no possibility of water percolating through.
The false wall referred to earlier is built on the same principles. It will accommodate the pipework between the timber uprights and also provide support for fixing the shower controls and adjustable rail for the shower head.
The surface of these walls should be sealed and may then be clad with ceramic tiles using a waterproof adhesive.
Choosing a shower enclosure
Shower enclosures come in several forms either filling one side of a recess as described above, two sides of a corner installed shower, or all three sides of a free-standing shower enclosure. Most enclosures are sold without a tray although there are complete products available such as Matki. All Matki shower enclosures include their matching shower tray.
Currently fashionable, frameless shower enclosures enable easy cleaning as the glass has no frame and therefore fewer gaps for dirt and limescale build up. Frameless shower enclosures are also known as 'Minimalist enclosures'. Ranges including frameless enclosures include Matki and Gal.
Many shower enclosures are slightly adjustable to allow for fitting in irregular positions. When choosing a shower enclosure for a room with a low ceiling you should be sure to account for the additional height of the shower tray.
Choosing a shower tray
Shower trays are available in steel and stone/resin construction. Steel trays, as well as being more durable and less prone to cracks and chips, are generally lower profile allowing assembly in rooms with lower ceilings. They also tend to be more expensive than their stone/resin equivalents. Kaldewei produce quality steel shower trays while we recommend MX trays in the stone/resin category.
Types of shower
In order to select the most suitable and economical type of shower it is important to recognise certain factors that can determine which shower is best for you. A mixer for example, would be the best choice in a household where both hot and cold water are supplied at equal pressure from the main storage system.
Most modern showers are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains). It is important to note whether or not the chosen shower is capable of coping with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler.
Such systems would include those of hot water being supplied from the mains via either a multipoint or combination boiler. To ensure the shower is adaptable to such conditions, it may be worth checking installation requirements with the manufacturer or to have it fitted by a registered plumber.
Bath/shower mixer:
Here, the hose and spray of the shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and once again, the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. Bath shower mixers can be wall mounted (for un-drilled baths) or deck mounted (plumbed into holes in the bath). Some baths come with tap holes and some without. Many plumbers are able to drill tap holes but you should check with your plummer to be safe. All of our tap ranges include wall and deck mounted options.
Pros
Relatively cheap and no extra plumbing is involved.
Cons
Temperature control is low which can prove to inconvenient and it is fiddly to adjust.
Manual mixer:
The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive manual mixer showers). We recommend Kusasi manual shower valves.
Pros
The wall unit is usually fixed at chest height, this makes temperature adjustment much more convenient.
Cons
More expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. Also, the hot and cold water supply pipes will need to be plumbed in.
Thermostatic mixer:
The hose and spray of the shower are part of a wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve. It is complete with a built in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. For examples of thermostatic shower valves see this link.
Pros
The controlled temperature makes it extremely convenient. Also the thermostat means that the temperature and flow of water should not be affected when water is being used elsewhere in the house.
Cons
It is the most expensive of the different mixer options.
Power shower:
A single mixer unit containing an electric pump which is capable of altering both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted provided that there is a water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder.
Pros
Both the pressure and temperature of the water are easily adjusted making it convenient to use.
Cons
It is not suitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure. Also, the removal of waste water can be slow if the waste pipe is not big enough. It is best to use a 50mm (2in) waste pipe if possible.
Electric shower:
A wall unit which is plumbed into a mains cold water supply only. The water is heated as it passes through the unit. It is important to note that for this type of shower to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted as appropriate via a knob without the use of an additional pump.
Pros
Some models have a stabiliser for the temperature so that the water supply remains unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. It can also ensure that the water supply does not run too hot or cold.
Cons
Because the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure, the spray is often weak in the winter when the mains water is colder. This problem is combated in some models which are available with a winter/summer setting. The unit must be wired to an electric power supply according to Electricity Board requirements.
Installing the shower
The following is a step by step guide to the shower installation process.
1. Using the instruction guide that should have been provided, fit the shower control.
2. Before fitting the pipes that will eventually supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be given a waterproof covering and isolating valves should be fitted. The pipes can then be recessed into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
3. Fit the shower tray, shower head, and fittings.
4. Connect up the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water. (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
5. Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may need tightening.
6. If it is an electrical shower that is being installed, the electricity supply must be switched off, before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
7. The shower should now be ready for the screens and cubicle tray to be fitted.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Child friendly Bathroom
Creating a child-friendly bathroom
There are several steps you can take to make your bathroom safer and more convenient for your children. Remember, most people only change their bathroom once or twice during ownership of a property. You may not have children now but if this is your first home, it is likely that your new bathroom will have to suit children in the future.
Toilets
Young children may need a step to reach the toilet bowl. Have you planned enough room? In washrooms containing a bath, you should plan to keep the steps out of reach as they can make it easy for your child to fall into the bath.
If you are potty training toddlers, you may want to plan a basin large enough to rinse a potty in. Antiseptic flushable wipes offer an alternative. A high shelf can be useful for keeping cleaning products on.
Children are top-heavy because their heads are much bigger in size relative to their bodies than adults. This makes drowning in a toilet a real and preventable possibility. In addition to always keeping a watchful eye on your child when you know they are in the bathroom, consider installing toilet seat locks to keep them from opening the lid.
Bathing
Injuries can easily occur if a young child slips as they sit, stand in, or climb in or out of a tub. Place a nonslip mat at the bottom of the tub and a non-skid rug or bathmat on the floor next to the tub. Always wipe up water that has splashed on to the floor quickly, so it will not add to the risk of slipping. Commercial padding is available that fits snugly over the top edge of the tub, cushioning the hard surfaces and preventing serious injury should a child fall against it. Or drape a thick damp towel over the tub side during your child's bath.
A strong grab bar is also helpful when children start to bath or shower independently. Remember, never under any circumstances, leave your child in the bathtub without adult supervision, even for a minute or two.
Water temperature
Set hot water heaters no higher than 54 deg C (120 deg F). A lower water temperature helps ensure safe bathing by reducing the chance of scalding (it takes just three seconds for a child to get burned).
Waste disposal
You may be used to discarding razors and empty washing product bottles in the bathroom bin. This will have to stop now you have children. You could consider planning a lockable cupboard or vanity unit for the bin to live in.
Now that you know some of the potential dangers that lurk in your bathroom, you just might want to install a hook-and-eye lock high up on the outside of the bathroom door so you can keep it secured when the bathroom isn't in use.
There are several steps you can take to make your bathroom safer and more convenient for your children. Remember, most people only change their bathroom once or twice during ownership of a property. You may not have children now but if this is your first home, it is likely that your new bathroom will have to suit children in the future.
Toilets
Young children may need a step to reach the toilet bowl. Have you planned enough room? In washrooms containing a bath, you should plan to keep the steps out of reach as they can make it easy for your child to fall into the bath.
If you are potty training toddlers, you may want to plan a basin large enough to rinse a potty in. Antiseptic flushable wipes offer an alternative. A high shelf can be useful for keeping cleaning products on.
Children are top-heavy because their heads are much bigger in size relative to their bodies than adults. This makes drowning in a toilet a real and preventable possibility. In addition to always keeping a watchful eye on your child when you know they are in the bathroom, consider installing toilet seat locks to keep them from opening the lid.
Bathing
Injuries can easily occur if a young child slips as they sit, stand in, or climb in or out of a tub. Place a nonslip mat at the bottom of the tub and a non-skid rug or bathmat on the floor next to the tub. Always wipe up water that has splashed on to the floor quickly, so it will not add to the risk of slipping. Commercial padding is available that fits snugly over the top edge of the tub, cushioning the hard surfaces and preventing serious injury should a child fall against it. Or drape a thick damp towel over the tub side during your child's bath.
A strong grab bar is also helpful when children start to bath or shower independently. Remember, never under any circumstances, leave your child in the bathtub without adult supervision, even for a minute or two.
Water temperature
Set hot water heaters no higher than 54 deg C (120 deg F). A lower water temperature helps ensure safe bathing by reducing the chance of scalding (it takes just three seconds for a child to get burned).
Waste disposal
You may be used to discarding razors and empty washing product bottles in the bathroom bin. This will have to stop now you have children. You could consider planning a lockable cupboard or vanity unit for the bin to live in.
Now that you know some of the potential dangers that lurk in your bathroom, you just might want to install a hook-and-eye lock high up on the outside of the bathroom door so you can keep it secured when the bathroom isn't in use.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
suggestions for a beautiful bathroom
Suggestions for a beautiful bathroom
1. Plan your bathroom(see above)
2. Find an plumber/bathroom installer/tiler who you have seen thier work. Stylish bathrooms put in by a shoddy plumber look average and your bathroom should look superb and will do if you combine good ideas great equipment and quality craftsmen.
3. Communicate with your installer, let him have a copy of the plans and a copy of your order and discuss with him where you want everything. for example if you are tall make sure he puts the shower head high enough(i know this from painfull expirence).
4. Most quality bathroom furniture and some shower doors takes about a month come in. So allow plenty of time when you order before the installation start date(see salesman for details). Last minute orders while possiable are not recommended.
5. Decide what for you is important in your bathroom. So if you really want a powerfull shower allocate agreater part of your budget for the shower.
6. Make 100% sure you are happy with what you are ordering as many items are unreturnable and the rest you will be charged a restocking fee for.
7. If you are thinking of selling your house in the next couple of years it is advisable to keep a bath in your property even if you do not use it,. as this will make your property easy to sell. Also try to keep the styling neutral but classy. Bright pink tiles may float your boat but are likley to make any potential buyer think that they will have spend money on the bathroom as a priority, therefore making it less likley that you will get your properties asking price. If however you are going to live there forever do what you like, if you don`t like baths but love showers have a big shower and throw the bath out!
8. Try to get your bathroom delivered on the day your installer starts. So that he can talk to our driver who is also a plumber and go through and check the goods and ask any relevent questions.
More suggestions coming soon!
1. Plan your bathroom(see above)
2. Find an plumber/bathroom installer/tiler who you have seen thier work. Stylish bathrooms put in by a shoddy plumber look average and your bathroom should look superb and will do if you combine good ideas great equipment and quality craftsmen.
3. Communicate with your installer, let him have a copy of the plans and a copy of your order and discuss with him where you want everything. for example if you are tall make sure he puts the shower head high enough(i know this from painfull expirence).
4. Most quality bathroom furniture and some shower doors takes about a month come in. So allow plenty of time when you order before the installation start date(see salesman for details). Last minute orders while possiable are not recommended.
5. Decide what for you is important in your bathroom. So if you really want a powerfull shower allocate agreater part of your budget for the shower.
6. Make 100% sure you are happy with what you are ordering as many items are unreturnable and the rest you will be charged a restocking fee for.
7. If you are thinking of selling your house in the next couple of years it is advisable to keep a bath in your property even if you do not use it,. as this will make your property easy to sell. Also try to keep the styling neutral but classy. Bright pink tiles may float your boat but are likley to make any potential buyer think that they will have spend money on the bathroom as a priority, therefore making it less likley that you will get your properties asking price. If however you are going to live there forever do what you like, if you don`t like baths but love showers have a big shower and throw the bath out!
8. Try to get your bathroom delivered on the day your installer starts. So that he can talk to our driver who is also a plumber and go through and check the goods and ask any relevent questions.
More suggestions coming soon!
A little planning can make bathing in your new bathroom wonderfully pleasurable. Your ideas on style and our know-how will make the room.
We plan more than 90% of our bathrooms. We know how to maximise the space. We will design your bathroom on paper - frankly, we have seen so many CAD designs (although looking great) are wrong and don't work as well as the simpler hand drawn sketch.
How can you help in the design process?
To plan your bathroom our designers need to know:
We plan more than 90% of our bathrooms. We know how to maximise the space. We will design your bathroom on paper - frankly, we have seen so many CAD designs (although looking great) are wrong and don't work as well as the simpler hand drawn sketch.
How can you help in the design process?
To plan your bathroom our designers need to know:
- What style and ideas and needs you have for your bathroom.
- Where the toilet is situated.
- Where the window is situated.
- Where your door is and which way it opens.
- The posistion of any sloping ceilings.
- Your budget for the bathroom.
- How you heat your hot water e.g a combi boiler.
- How soon will you want the bathroom, as this will inflence what goods can be ordered in time.
- Most importantly what your ideas are on what the bathroom should look like
Once our designers have this information, it will enable them to combine the practical aspects of your room and merge them with your design ideas and any styles you may have seen in our showroom.
A site visit - where one of our designers will come to your house, usually in the evening, to measure your bathroom and discuss the design of your bathroom - is available for a fee of £50 (refundable once you place an order).
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
General Bathroom F A Q
Below are some of the more frequently asked general bathroom questions.
What is a Back-To-Wall toilet?
Back-To-Wall (BTW) describes a toilet that is fixed rigidly to the surface of a supportive wall. The cistern is attached directly to the wall allowing for the waste pipes to be hidden.
What is a Closed-Couple toilet?
Most of the toilets you see are Closed-Couple, this means that the cistern is attached directly to the toilet pan.
What is a Corner Fitted toilet?
This a great space saver toilet. As the name suggests, this toilet fits into the corner of the bathroom or cloakroom.
What is a Wall Hung toilet?
A Wall-Hung toilet is attached to wall, this allows the toilet to be elevated off the floor. These toilets can be attached to load bearing walls but can also be installed and supported by a steel framework, which means that they can be fixed to any wall within the bathroom.
What is a countertop wash basin?
There are many countertop sinks around at the moment. These sinks sit on top of your vanity unit with the plumbing housed inside. They come in varying materials, glass, marble and porcelain. Very stylish but if you are considering a countertop sink, its worth bearing in mind the extra space it requires.
What is a Semi-Recessed wash basin?
A Semi-Recessed wash basin is integrated into a vanity unit, but unlike the Countertop, it will over hang the unit. The plumbing will be housed inside the vanity unit. Using bathroom furniture together with Semi-Recessed wash basins provides ample storage for all those bottles, jars towels and soaps that tend to accumulate in the bathroom.
What does W.C. mean?
W.C. stands for water closet, but is more widely known as a toilet.
What is a 4-Piece Bathroom Suite?
Your 4 - Piece Bathroom suite comprises of the 4 individual pottery fixtures; the toilet pan and cistern, the wash basin and pedestal. A 5 Piece Bathroom Suite has the addition of a bidet.
What is the difference between a Cloakroom Suite and a standard bathroom suite?
A Cloakroom Suite is smaller than an the standard bathroom suite, it comprises of a basin and toilet usually more compact in size.
What is an En-Suite Bathroom?
An En-Suite Bathroom is a bathroom that is usually attached to a bedroom.
What is a Concealed Cistern?
You would probably find a Concealed Cistern in a Back-to-Wall or Wall Mounted toilet. The cistern and water chamber is hidden from view usually within the bathroom furniture or in the wall cavity.
What is the difference between a top-flushing and a side-flushing toilet?
A top-flushing toilet is usually operated by a push-button flush. This pushable fitting usually comes with Dual Flush as standard. This provides the user with 2 flushing strengths and allowing the user to be more economical with the water. A side-flushing toilet operates with a single handle on the side of the cistern.
What is the difference between a Full and Semi Pedestal?
A Pedestal is the support underneath your wash basin. A Full-Pedestal runs vertically from the wash basin to the bathroom floor. A Semi-Pedestal is wall mounted and is designed to conceal the pipe works.
What is a Walk-In Shower Cubicle?
A Walk-in Shower Cubicle refers to an shower enclosure that doesnt have doors or any form of framework.
What does "adjustment" mean in terms of my shower cubicle?
Rarely are walls in houses perfectly square, particularly in older houses. The Adjustment allows your fitter to adjust the shower enclosure to fit comfortably into the space.
What is an Adjustable Shower Tray?
Sometimes floors in houses can be uneven, in addition if you have a concrete floor you may require room under your shower tray for you plumbing. Therefore an Adjustable Shower Tray is supplied with changeable feet so the user can adjust the height and make sure the tray is level.
What is a reversible shower door/ panel?
This item can be used if rotated or turned upside down.
What is a Bi-Fold Shower Door?
The shower door consists of two panel that concertina together when the door is opened. Whilst one end stays in a fixed position, the other runs along tracks allowing for access.
What is a Corner-Entry Shower Cubicle?
The doors on a Corner-Entry Shower Cubicle open from the corner point of the shower. The cubicle is usually square in shape with 2 sliding doors.
What is a Hinged Shower Door?
A Hinged Shower Door swings open rather than having sliding doors on rails.
What is the difference between a Pentagon Shower Cubicle and a Quadrant Shower Cubicle?
Imagine if you will a square shower cubicle with one corner sliced off. A Pentagon shower has five sides, two of which fit into a corner area. The remaining three consist of two panels and a door. This is a great space saver. A Quadrant Shower Cubicle is quarter circular in shape and designed to fit in to a corner space, with a curved glass screen and sliding doors. An Offset Quadrant Shower Cubicle is a rectangular shower with an angled corner at one end.
What is the difference between a Square and Rectangular Shower Cubicle?
A Rectangular shower cubicle will usually comprise of a shower door and 1 side panel if enclosed by two solid walls; alternatively an end panel. The Square Shower Cubicle is an enclosure that fits a square area in the bathroom, generally comprising a door and a minimum of 1 side panel.
What is a Bath Screen?
A bath screen sit in the edge of the bath, and is usually required with shower/bath to prevent the spillage of water. Most bath screens are made of toughened safety glass. They are sometimes made in curved glass, plain and even patterned.
What is a Side Panel?
A Side Panel or End panel is a screen that attaches to a shower door at 90 to create a shower enclosure wherever a side wall isn't present.
What is an In-Line Shower Panel?
If you are installing a Rectangular Shower Enclosure you may wish to use an In-Line Shower Panel attached to a shower door in to increase the size of the cubicle.
What is a Slider Door?
A Slider Door operates by running along a guide track in order to allow access and is generally used in corner entry rectangular and quadrant cubicles.
What is an Inset Shower Tray?
Inset Shower Trays and Floor Standing Tray is a low tray suitable for a wet room. The thin tray will sit directly to the floor and therefore needs to be installed where access to plumbing is available.
Is the glass safe for use in a shower?
Most shower screens, panels and cubicles are made from Safety Glass as standard. Safety Glass is tougher and thicker than standard glass, increasing both stability and user safety.
What is a Bath Shower Mixer?
A Bath Shower Mixer works equally well as a bath mixer and a shower, with water distributed through either the tap or shower outlets.
What is a Bridge?
A Bridge is the horizontal connection between the hot and cold water taps.
What is a Back-To-Wall toilet?
Back-To-Wall (BTW) describes a toilet that is fixed rigidly to the surface of a supportive wall. The cistern is attached directly to the wall allowing for the waste pipes to be hidden.
What is a Closed-Couple toilet?
Most of the toilets you see are Closed-Couple, this means that the cistern is attached directly to the toilet pan.
What is a Corner Fitted toilet?
This a great space saver toilet. As the name suggests, this toilet fits into the corner of the bathroom or cloakroom.
What is a Wall Hung toilet?
A Wall-Hung toilet is attached to wall, this allows the toilet to be elevated off the floor. These toilets can be attached to load bearing walls but can also be installed and supported by a steel framework, which means that they can be fixed to any wall within the bathroom.
What is a countertop wash basin?
There are many countertop sinks around at the moment. These sinks sit on top of your vanity unit with the plumbing housed inside. They come in varying materials, glass, marble and porcelain. Very stylish but if you are considering a countertop sink, its worth bearing in mind the extra space it requires.
What is a Semi-Recessed wash basin?
A Semi-Recessed wash basin is integrated into a vanity unit, but unlike the Countertop, it will over hang the unit. The plumbing will be housed inside the vanity unit. Using bathroom furniture together with Semi-Recessed wash basins provides ample storage for all those bottles, jars towels and soaps that tend to accumulate in the bathroom.
What does W.C. mean?
W.C. stands for water closet, but is more widely known as a toilet.
What is a 4-Piece Bathroom Suite?
Your 4 - Piece Bathroom suite comprises of the 4 individual pottery fixtures; the toilet pan and cistern, the wash basin and pedestal. A 5 Piece Bathroom Suite has the addition of a bidet.
What is the difference between a Cloakroom Suite and a standard bathroom suite?
A Cloakroom Suite is smaller than an the standard bathroom suite, it comprises of a basin and toilet usually more compact in size.
What is an En-Suite Bathroom?
An En-Suite Bathroom is a bathroom that is usually attached to a bedroom.
What is a Concealed Cistern?
You would probably find a Concealed Cistern in a Back-to-Wall or Wall Mounted toilet. The cistern and water chamber is hidden from view usually within the bathroom furniture or in the wall cavity.
What is the difference between a top-flushing and a side-flushing toilet?
A top-flushing toilet is usually operated by a push-button flush. This pushable fitting usually comes with Dual Flush as standard. This provides the user with 2 flushing strengths and allowing the user to be more economical with the water. A side-flushing toilet operates with a single handle on the side of the cistern.
What is the difference between a Full and Semi Pedestal?
A Pedestal is the support underneath your wash basin. A Full-Pedestal runs vertically from the wash basin to the bathroom floor. A Semi-Pedestal is wall mounted and is designed to conceal the pipe works.
What is a Walk-In Shower Cubicle?
A Walk-in Shower Cubicle refers to an shower enclosure that doesnt have doors or any form of framework.
What does "adjustment" mean in terms of my shower cubicle?
Rarely are walls in houses perfectly square, particularly in older houses. The Adjustment allows your fitter to adjust the shower enclosure to fit comfortably into the space.
What is an Adjustable Shower Tray?
Sometimes floors in houses can be uneven, in addition if you have a concrete floor you may require room under your shower tray for you plumbing. Therefore an Adjustable Shower Tray is supplied with changeable feet so the user can adjust the height and make sure the tray is level.
What is a reversible shower door/ panel?
This item can be used if rotated or turned upside down.
What is a Bi-Fold Shower Door?
The shower door consists of two panel that concertina together when the door is opened. Whilst one end stays in a fixed position, the other runs along tracks allowing for access.
What is a Corner-Entry Shower Cubicle?
The doors on a Corner-Entry Shower Cubicle open from the corner point of the shower. The cubicle is usually square in shape with 2 sliding doors.
What is a Hinged Shower Door?
A Hinged Shower Door swings open rather than having sliding doors on rails.
What is the difference between a Pentagon Shower Cubicle and a Quadrant Shower Cubicle?
Imagine if you will a square shower cubicle with one corner sliced off. A Pentagon shower has five sides, two of which fit into a corner area. The remaining three consist of two panels and a door. This is a great space saver. A Quadrant Shower Cubicle is quarter circular in shape and designed to fit in to a corner space, with a curved glass screen and sliding doors. An Offset Quadrant Shower Cubicle is a rectangular shower with an angled corner at one end.
What is the difference between a Square and Rectangular Shower Cubicle?
A Rectangular shower cubicle will usually comprise of a shower door and 1 side panel if enclosed by two solid walls; alternatively an end panel. The Square Shower Cubicle is an enclosure that fits a square area in the bathroom, generally comprising a door and a minimum of 1 side panel.
What is a Bath Screen?
A bath screen sit in the edge of the bath, and is usually required with shower/bath to prevent the spillage of water. Most bath screens are made of toughened safety glass. They are sometimes made in curved glass, plain and even patterned.
What is a Side Panel?
A Side Panel or End panel is a screen that attaches to a shower door at 90 to create a shower enclosure wherever a side wall isn't present.
What is an In-Line Shower Panel?
If you are installing a Rectangular Shower Enclosure you may wish to use an In-Line Shower Panel attached to a shower door in to increase the size of the cubicle.
What is a Slider Door?
A Slider Door operates by running along a guide track in order to allow access and is generally used in corner entry rectangular and quadrant cubicles.
What is an Inset Shower Tray?
Inset Shower Trays and Floor Standing Tray is a low tray suitable for a wet room. The thin tray will sit directly to the floor and therefore needs to be installed where access to plumbing is available.
Is the glass safe for use in a shower?
Most shower screens, panels and cubicles are made from Safety Glass as standard. Safety Glass is tougher and thicker than standard glass, increasing both stability and user safety.
What is a Bath Shower Mixer?
A Bath Shower Mixer works equally well as a bath mixer and a shower, with water distributed through either the tap or shower outlets.
What is a Bridge?
A Bridge is the horizontal connection between the hot and cold water taps.
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